Opened the curtains this morning, after a wonderful night’s sleep, and what did I see? SUN for the first time in over a week! Now that was a thrill.

Left B and B, run by a very bossy lady, to meet my friends and to decide which route we would take from Keld to Reeth. The high route I did last time, the low route, along the Swale River is the recommended one and the one we took. What a perfectly lovely somewhere between thirteen and fifteen miles we walked today!

Picture-book pretty! Since I am not the greatest photographer, this is the only photo worth posting and it is not very good:

We crossed many styles, walked through many gates, each having its own peculiar way of latching, some of which are very narrow.

Tanya squeezing through:

My room at tonight’s B and B is tiny, but there is a cheerful common room. Picked up a “tuna” sandwich (really just mayonnaise) from the shop attached to the post office, it being the only establishment selling such kind of fare open at 4:45 when we arrived. (That places close early in these parts is an understatement.) Added to said sandwich a yellow pepper, chips, and an apple, and called it dinner.

Upon arrival at the B and B, cake and tea were was served, so not feeling one bit deprived.

Best purchase so far, the only one, really, was that pair of gators, I think I mentioned, real ones, not silly little ones that tie on with a shoe lace, but the kind that go up to the knee and are waterproof. For those planning on doing this kind of walk, don’t leave home without them.

Enjoying very much the dried apricots and walnuts brought from home. They are so delicious with good bread and butter. Hope to replenish supply in Richmond–tomorrow’s destination and the next day’s!

It is 8:30 p.m. and the sky still looks good. That unrelenting rain, day after day, was truly exhausting.

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

The clouds thinned yesterday; good weather was predicted. Tanya and Ian,

again, graciously allowed me to accompany them up and over the Nine Standards, the infamously boggy section of the walk, which I wisely skipped in 2007 because of the rain. It was exciting to make a real attempt.

How bad was it? Ian’s pole was eaten by the mud (he was able to retrieve it), I sunk into an invisible hole to above the knee and fell flat on my face into a stream. Tanya, despite her achiles tendon pain and broken arm (hidden from view in the photo) managed to get through the boggy traps unscathed. It was a marvel.

It must be said, though, that not for Ian, neither Tanya nor I, not to mention a few others, would have gotten by so easily. A shoulder, a pole, whatever it took, there he was at the ready to help. And here is is at the Nine Standards, on the throne of glory on his 67th birthday:

It was tough walking. Actually, we descended to the road sooner than was part of the official route, but didn’t have the whatever-it-takes to go back up again to search in the bog for the remains of the “red track.” We did well enough.

The Nine Standards are important enough to get their very own sign:

Speaking of signs, some help and others do not:

The Dales are James Herriot country, so you know that animals, large and not so large, rule in these parts. You can see how they live:

and a closer-up:

Having crossed the watershed, which separates the river flow from the Irish Sea to the North sea–maybe that is not expressed quite right, we are now officially more than half way to Robin Hood’s Bay.

The sun did not come out today, but neither did the rain gear. Here is what my boots look like now:

A couple of days ago, shortly after I left the B and B to which I had been bumped (to my great good fortune), I met Tanya and Ian, an Australian couple with whom I have been walking:

I was going to import their picture, but I can’t access photos other than today’s and I have messed up this draft four times already, so again, pictures have to wait. OK, I canm but I don’t have a good picture!

Tanya is walking with a broken arm that has been set with plate in it; she keeps her arm in a sling. I do not know how she does it. Another couple, Mandy and John have been part of the company too, for a couple of days, but we lost them today.

It’s been great having this companionship! We hardly went “off course,” but when that happens, it is beyond comforting to be with others.

Last night’s B and B was positively luxurious! A spacious room, welcoming common area, gorgeous breakfast with fruit in every state fruit can be in: fresh, dried, and stewed. A great shower! The only problem was that the bed was miserably uncomfortable! What can you do!

Yesterday’s town, Orton, boasts a chocolate shoppe, where we stopped for hot drinks, most especially delicious when you are freezing and wet. After we had sat for a bit, I bought some rocky road chocolates. Alas, they met a sad end. I forgot that I had put them in my raincoat pocket, so they ended up in the boiler room where all sopping gear goes to dry. Oh well.

Also regarding yesterday–we officially left the Lake District, which normally would have been sad, it being so beautiful and all, but the weather had turned the days there into a terrible trial.

In fact, a man who was guiding a formal group told us than in his six years of doing this work, this was the worst weather he had experienced in the Lakes, so you see, in hyperbole I am not indulging.

I love the Dales! Here are some baby animals we saw today:

Kirkby Stephen is the second biggest town on the route. It has a traffic light and a grocery store. Dinner was a sandwich, chips, some fine cherries and strawberries, and chocolate. It beats pub food after a while.

We actually walked more than fifteen miles today,but not having to climb mountains and deal with rain gear made it seem like less. Also, there is some sine-age (spelling corrector won’t let me do it any other way) now that we are out of the Lakes:

Not loving this B and B but it does have wi-fi! It was one of those I had not chosen, but the proprietress did serve hot tea and a decent scone. The shower is barely a trickle and the toilet runs. Cooking odors pervade the halls, then again, on the plus side, one does not have to fight for a 7:30 a.m. breakfast.

Tomorrow’s plans a bit iffy. Tanya’s foot hurts, so it is not clear what the plan is. The walk is a big challenge in boggy terrain. It is the section I took the road last time.

I am writing this in a room with a TV on and loud; hard to concentrate.

Wait! I have a riddle (look both ways, chicky!):

Why did the chicken cross the road?

You’ll gave to take my word for it: to poop! (Max will love it!)

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Kirkby Stephen,United Kingdom

Who would ever think that an eight and a half mile walk (walk is the British term for hike, so please do not confuse “walk” with, say, “walk in the park.” In the pouring rain, with a climb of over two hours, a climb that goes straight up—and that is just for starters, it can be very very hard. Think of the movie The Mission. Remember the priest guy shlepping up the cliffs beside the falls? OK, so he had bare feet (maybe that made it easier, who knows), but all he was carrying was his flute. Set that scene in northern England in miserable conditions, and you will get the idea–maybe.

Three, young chappies from out of nowhere came to my aid a couple of times to help me over fast-flowing, deep streams. Then I met up with a group, whose leader was kind of enough to let me get in line during a particularly absurd climb, where no sane human being should go.

A little bit later, I bumped into a couple who had stayed at my B and B, and who had excellent navigating skills. I followed them. I collapsed in Grasmere. After an excellent latte in the same shoppe where I had had an excellent latte four years ago, I headed to Glenthorne House, the Quaker-run B and B. It was a gracious, cheerful place to stay. The nicest staff, the best drying facilities I have ever come across, and a cheerful sunroom wherein I drank two cups of tea, tea being served daily at 4:30 p.m. with a variety of cakes, while dozing at the same time.

That B and B, more of a lodge, really, had only three guests last night. Dinner is served there,too. So we ate together–two ladies there for yoga week, one of whom brought her own honey and crackers for breakfast, and I. (I am thinking that that is not a great sentance, but syntax is not my strong suit at the moment.) It was the first place where they made genuine coffee, as opposed to putting instant in a press. Extra stars for that.

Today, rain again, but a short walk to Patterdale, eight plus miles, but a walk with challenges, though not as severe as yesterday’s As I was huffing an puffing during an early climb, i saw in the distance a man with a silver backpack. I could tell he was older. He kept stopping. The distance between us diminished. I caught up. He, too was exhausted from the previous two days’ exertions in horrendous conditions. I thought, “Hmmm, my kinda guy.” He could navigate!

I don’t think he was thrilled to have me on his tail, but he finally accepted that i was not going away, and we began to chat amiably. He was really a very nice man to whom I was very grateful. He allowed me to express my thanks by my treating us to tea and scones in Patterdale.How we enjoyed relaxing in the Patterdale Hotel where it was warm and dry, even though we agreed that the scones were disappointing! For shame!

Oh–I never did report how angry I was that Sherpa (the booking company) changed my B and B for tonight. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The B and B they put me in is in a much better location than the one I had chosen, even if it is less luxurious, but these owners could not be nicer.

Not only do I have wi-fi here–not available in town–but, not wanting to go to the not-so-hot local pub for dinner, I asked the owner if they made packed lunches. (Most do.) “Yes, of course.” “By any chance, may I get a packed lunch but for dinner, instead?” “Sure!” Not only did Hazel (the proprietess) prepare a tuna sandwich, chips, and salad (you would not get salad in a packed lunch), she added a bowl of soup.

In all B and B bedrooms, there are tea and coffee-making facilites. Here there is Cadvury’s hot chocolate mix. It is divine!

You may be wondering, “If the walk is so damn hard, why did I decide to do it again?” It didn’t rain last time, at least not in the Lake District where the walking is the most difficult and where there is NO. and I mean NO, sineage. The weather makes all the difference. Not exactly all. Walking with friends, meeting up with strangers who are kind and helpful makes it possible.

Tomorrow I can get a really early start ’cause I am very close to where the path picks up, so my strategy of waiting for someone to come along in case of difficulty is sure to be effective, yet again!

It is raining lightly now, but who knows, maybe the sun really will come out tommorow!

It was wonderful to meet up with Ruth and Paul again, friends who have met me annually for a day’s walk, and this year Nina, who was also on the Tour de Mont Blanc, joined us. After an early dinner, we went to our separate B and B’s for a good night’s sleep before the next day’s seventeen plus mile walk to Stonethwaite.

It was P O U R I N G the next morning, and little did we know that in such weather, one is supposed to take path that hugs the north side of Lake Ennerdale, not the more scenic south path—we are talking five miles of path here. It was very hard going.

Tried to upload image to illustrate the ten-foot (or more) wide rushing, DEEP streams we had to cross; waterfalls, really. Several. The worst one was the first. Paul tossed his pack across, and then made it across, himself. The others managed in like manner, I needed help. I could not have done it alone. Had I been alone, I would have turned back. Water gushed over the tops ove everypne’s boots, which meant that it was squish squish squish walking for the rest of the day. It also meant that your boots, absolutely saturated, weighed a whole lot. Snow-Seal does not deal with situations such as this.

All day, it poured, it drizzled, it sleeted, it blew; The walking was was wet and rocky, and there was a lot of climbing. It was exhausting. Let’s put it this way: the above mentioned Nina, who, the morning after spraining her ankle, hiked in the Alps, declared the day to have been a challenge. There is no hyperbole here.

Our reward was a fantastic dinner at the Langstrath in Stonthwaite. I was too wiped out to enjoy it to the fullest, even though being with these special friends is such a treat.

Very sad that I still cannot get pictures to load. Please come back at the end of August when all such technical difficulties will be solved, and you will be able to read the new and improved version. I think I will stop complaining about the pics thing until IT help comes!

I am still trying to get photos into the blurbs. Hmmm, let’s see if it works when not in “edit” mode. No, it does not. I have tried everything I can think of. Waiting for further technical support. Thing is, since I did it once, one would think that I could do it again; simply cannot figure out the problem.

Today was a perfect walking day; weather San Francisco-like, but now it is raining. Tomorrow is the most gorgeous of all the gorgeous days of the route, but the forecast, alas, is not good. At least I will have the company of Ruth and Paul, and this year, also Nina, who will be joining us–all from Tour de Mont Blanc walk three years ago.

Logged 11 1/2 miles today; it felt like a lot. Clearly, I am not 100% yet, but it was such a pretty day and I am so sad that I cannot do a running photo narrative. I took pictures with that in mind. Maybe I will get that figured out soon.

I got “off track” a couple of times, but never badly. Isn’t it great to be able to catch your mistakes early?! A guy who was staying at my B and B was starting out today using two sets of waypoints!

One is not supposed to check in to B and B’s before 4:00 p.m., but I arrived at mine at 2:30 and fortunately, the proprietress did allow me to come in and get settled. A delicious pice of cake was waiting in my room. It was perfect with a cup of tea.

Short post today unless I get back early from dinner and figure out the photo thing! Nahh, if I get back early, I am going to bed!

It turns out that the lost post was not lost at all, but was in draft mode, but now it is not necessary.  Finding it, though, was a good boost for my still primitive IT skills.

Anyway, had a gorgeous day yesterday.  Perfect weather, walked along beach at low tide, and started to get sorted, a process still in process.  Abbey Farm House (too lazy to do links) is a super nice B and B. When I can add photos, you’ll be able to see the bathroom, for example.  Apparently, computer too slow for picture adding, said Steve, the owner.  Oh, and can’t get wi fi on on my iPad–at least not here.

Today, perfect weather again and the official start to the walk.  I got “off trail” once or twice, but quickly realized my errors and got righted again.  “If  it doesn’t make sense, it is probably wrong!”  For those who care, and that means only one person–maybe– that is Ben Foster’s view of translation. The things we remember! 

This is such a gorgeous walk.  I had forgotten just how beautiful it is.  Of course, having basic competence with the GPS helps. I hiked ten miles today with a less than full pack and then, after returning to St Bees, walked another four or so.  Now at about 90% recovery from shingles.

No memorable meals to report –had a way to rich “mushroom wellington” last night–that is a concoction of lots of  onions sauteed in lots of oil, and a hidden mushroom in a pie crust. It was garnisihed with a sprig of letuce. You would not believe how many dishes here are “pies.” They are a national staple.  I did discover a new Cadbury candy bar with peanuts, caramel and raisons.  Yum!  But I am still sulking that Kraft bought out Cadbury.

I thought I would dine on the beach tonight, so bought a chicken sandwich at the post office–the post office doubles as the general store in many towns, but one bite and I thought, uuhhh, no, so off to local bistro, which is at the train station (honest) where I hope the fare will be superior to last night’s.

By the way, at 10:30 p.m. it is still light out!  Makes it kind of hard to go to bed!

Tomorrow, the second part of the first leg and arrival at Ennerdale.  Probably no more posts for a few days.

Technical skills still seem to be wanting!  Yesterday wrote about the trip over, but maybe, mercifully for ya’ll, there was no “Post” option when I was done.  Should that happen again, I shall e-mail to Alex, who will be good to her mama and post for me. 

In a nutshell, the trip over was completely and wonderfully uneventful.  The plane pulled away from the gate on time and landed on time!  Having ingested a fast-acting soporific upon being seated, I slept or dozed the whole way.  It makes all the difference!

Immigration line in Heathrow a stunning reminder of the huge variety of humanity that inhabits our world. Just looking at the different hairdos keeps one occupied until the nice lady asks questions, the answers to which will determine whether you can pass GO or not!  Unlike the Verizon lady whose security question was “What is your favorite song?” This lady asked, when told I was doing the Coast to Coast walk, “Where do you start and where do you end?”  I was wondering if she had been trained in Israel.

Speaking of Israel, there, when you ask for directions, the askee points and says, “That way.” Here, it seems that the stock answer is, “Just ’round the corner!”  The corner in a station? Which corner?  A 90 degree turn or a gentle 60 degrees? 

Caught train  to Carlisle by a hair; I mean the doors were closing.  This is because you try to find platform 16 in Paddington Station so that you can catch the very S L O W  underground to Euston Underground Station and from there wend your way to Euston Train Station, at which place you must get your ticket validated. One person says “Take the escalator up.”  Another says “Take the escalator down.”  And there you are running hither and thither with back pack and shlepping suitcase until you finally find the yellow and pink line on the floor that leads you there. 

Oh well.  Met two jolly men on the final leg of the journey.  They were on their way to pick up mobile homes and drive them back down south to sell them.  It’s a lliving!

Going to try to post this and then continue. 

Still struggling with mechanics but let’s go on to FAQ’s OK so these are not REAL FAQ’s, they are fictive, but aren’t most of them? The difference is that the point of REAL FAQ’s is to say to the reader, “Go away and don’t bother us. You can find out what you want to know from reading this information.”

I am not trying to do that. I am trying to be clever, but, c’mon, it is not that clever. I would be much more impressed with myself if I could use all the formatting niceties.

1) How Do you prepare for such a walk? (That was supposed to be in blue, but I think I did not accomplish that.)

I walked with weights around my wrists and ankles (about 9 pounds) for two plus hours or jogged for an hour and a bit every day and also tried to do the Nordic Track in the evening, which is not all that difficult if you are compulsive and you lead a life that has few social demands!

But any mishegas will suffice so long as you know you can do the mileage each day. (Whoops, if I did get the blue for the question, then the whole answer will be blue and that was not supposed to happen!)

2) How Far in Advance Did you Make Your Reservations?

In November, would you believe? That is because it is difficult for a single person to get a room. It is as simple as that–especially on weekends and more especially on weekends in the Lake District.

It can work both ways, though. Sometimes you are put in a closet; sometimes, if the B and B is not busy, you will be upgraded to a palatial room.

3) Why Are You Doing This?

I love walking and being outside, no matter the weather, and I am a little bit crazy.

3b) Couldn’t You Go With a Group?

Yes. But that is a whole other story.

4) Do You Have To Carry Everything With You? (I have given up on trying to put the questions in blue.)

I am not THAT crazy! It is enough to carry a pack with rain jacket, rain pants, a fleece and wind shirt, two liters of water, food and other sundry items–like let us not forget the GPS.

5) Who Takes the Rest of Your Stuff?

A shlepping service! They charge per bag per day.

6) What Are The Most Important Items To Take?

So glad you asked! Boots and socks and your pack.

Oh, look! I finally imported a picture! See the pretty leather boots, all shiny with Snow-Seal (no time for link)? Switched from gortex to leather a couple of years ago because it is easier to waterproof leather.

Now let me say this about socks: Expect to pay for good ones and if you do not, you will pay in blisters. OK?

Which pack?

Look at that! Two pictures! Wow!

BIG DECISION. The green, lightweight, women’s XS, Gregory Arreba, a real find four years ago, or the Osprey Youth with the external frame, but seven ounces heavier?

Serious consultation arranged with friend, Jerry Anne. All pros and cons considered carefully. Osprey won.

Why? Its back length can be adjusted, thus taking weight off shoulders and relieving pain in shoulder and arm–one hopes!

Almost time to leave for airport! Sandwiches packed, passport, tickets and other essentials in their proper places. Anxiety level appropriately high!
Oh, and most important, shingles induced exhaustion definitely on the wane!

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:New Haven CT

How is this walk different from all other walks? On all other walks I went either alone or with a friend; on this walk I am going alone, so it is not different in that way.

On all other walks, I agonized for some time over what to take; on this walk, I agonized, too, but not so much except over the backpack, about which more some other time, so this is more or less the same.

On all other walks, I set the itinerary, including rest days, but had a full service company choose and book the B and B’s. For this walk, I chose the B and B’s myself—very much fun—paying Sherpa Van Service (hmmm, can’t figure out how to insert link, will have to consult with IT support team–Michael, are you there?) a flat fee to make the reservations. It remains to be seen whether my choices prove to be superior.

I did not get all my requests, like, for example, the Quaker place in Grasmere. About that one I am not whining, and, in fact, am kind of curious and interested to commune with Friends for a night so long as I don’t have to pray at meals or anything.

On all other walks, I did not take a camera; this time I have one in hand, hope I can use it, and can transfer pictures—or must one say “pics”
these days—to this blog, which is also, whoa, a brand new undertaking, most intimidating.

On all other walks, I did not have a sack full of adaptors, cords, connectors and whatnot to service said camera, recently acquired iPad (so excited about that) and cell phone, but on this walk, I do. (Just tried to import picture; failed! Need more IT support.)

Sadly, I cannot take advantage of 3G since it apparently goes into bankrupt mode when activated overseas, and who wants that?

On all other walks, I took only two tee shirts for day wear—not to worry, Marjorie, I do laundry every day—and one outfit for evening; on this walk, I added a third shirt for day wear and one extra, long-sleeved garment for evening, rounding out my wardrobe to a new level of chic.

Well, that is it for this post; I learned what I cannot yet do using the blogging app. The Getting Ready chapter will have to wait. All in good time!
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Still in New Haven, CT, USA