Author Archives: victoria hoffer

We had been thinking about the notorious segment from Herrerias de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro for some time. “Only 10 K,” Tanya noted thoughtfully, “But a straight climb the whole way.” We braced ourselves, expecting an unrelenting 80 degree ascent, but it was nothing like that. Uphill, yes, but it was not difficult. Especially enjoyable wasContinue reading “Day thirty one”

Day twenty nine, sick. No miles. Sad. Day thirty, 14.59 mi. Another gorgeous day. We ascend for some time and see clouds that are islands of fluff in the sky: At one point there is a fork in the path, but stones in the shape of an arrow make clear our direction: Evidence of humanContinue reading “Days twenty nine and thirty El Camino”

A pink horizon was the first sign of our most greatest walking day, so far, on El Camino. Woods, paths, hills we go up and hills we come down, trees, grasses, bushes, vegetation of various kinds surrounded us all day. We are so happy! Just look how big those stemless flowers grow in this richContinue reading “Day Twenty eight El Camino”

We trudged 12.89 miles. Part of the time it rained; part of the time it didn’t. Most of the time we walked near a road, but a short stretch took us through some woods, yeah. There was a fence, which, along almost all of its considerable length, people had woven things, mostly crosses of sticks:Continue reading “Day Twenty seven El Camino”

The constant roar of trucks, sounds of people shouting in the bar mixed with muffled voices through paper-thin walls, a thick piece of foam on a cot for a mattress, a pillow filled with who knows what, and linens just a bit yucky were red lights for a bad night’s sleep, and we had 18.37Continue reading “Day twenty six El Camino”

14 miles. The segment of the route we followed today has two legitimate destinations, the one to which were sent, which is the grey route—you never want to follow the grey route if you can help it; grey=roads, and the other destination, parallel to this one, through country side, to which we were not sent.Continue reading “Day twenty five El Camino”

We are in a city with traffic lights, more hustle and bustle than we are used to, and staying in a regular sort of hotel. The beds are comfy, the floors are carpeted (maybe for the first time–or were they also in Burgos? Who can remember?) But the wi-fi no funciona! We are a bitContinue reading “Twenty fourth day, El Camino REST DAY”

11.37 miles Reluctantly we left our most charming and atmospheric hostal rural so far. The front desk looks very busy even when no one is working there: In order to get to León early to experience a 424 stall market, we headed out before sunrise: Dawn is hardly an event here. It is dark andContinue reading “Twenty third day El Camino”

A difficult day, only 12.8 miles, flat and straight. But breakfast was minimal, it was raining, cold, and windy for two hours, and the boredom of the relentless sameness of the path for the past many days had taken its toll. For the first time I wondered, “Will I be able to complete this walk?”Continue reading “Twenty second day El Camino”

11.71 miles. The sky at Sahgún shortly after 8:00 a.m.: Who does not want to be buff? Pruned tree: Despite two previous claims, Sahagún asserts that IT is the geographical center of El Camino: We leave by a bridge: And should a crossword constructor think s/he can stump this solver with the clue, “river thatContinue reading “Day twenty one El Camino”