The North Sea….first glimpse:
Torrence Taxis, pre-booked to take me the ten miles from Cockburnspath (ck is silent) to Dunbar said, “Sure, call when you are about 1/2 hour away.” I did. No answer. Called 15 minutes later. No answer. Called from Cockburnspath, no answer. As opposed to Longformacus where there was a bus stop but no bus, Cockburnspath has both a bus stop AND a bus, but the bus runs only every two hours and I did not want to wait almost an hour and a half, so called another taxi company and in 15 or so minutes Andy showed up, took me to Dunbar and gave me much useful information. Worth every penny.
This garage—waiting point for taxi—functions twenty four hours a day:
Dunbar is home to John Muir. Here he is as a boy:
John Muir said, “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” He also said, “All that is perishable is vanishing.” He said many other wise and meaningful things.
Room in Rocks Hotel in Dunbar is more like a cell—not only is it small, shabby, and poorly maintained, but stupidly designed. For example, there is a kettle, but to use it you have to put it on the floor and plug it in behind the skinny wardrobe. The room is also right over the kitchen, so you can smell all the cooking odours. Guess they need some place to toss the old ladies, but they will not like my Trip Advisor review! Anyway, at least the room has good light. Rest of hotel is probably pretty nice.
Oh….the Southern Upland Way….yes, I finished it! I cannot say it was a joy; it was a challenge, so there is a sense of accomplishment. It is a demanding walk for the intrepid and foolish. I am so thankful for having had good weather. For sure St. Medard (weather) and St. Apolonia (teeth) have been following me!!
John Muir link from Dunbar to Cockburnspath was the short (12 mile) route for today. I am so happy to be walking by the sea again! The air is so fresh, the smell almost intoxicating, the wind energising, the rocks a constant fascination.
Dunbar Harbour:
Looks like these remains area about to topple:
Blurry close-up of kittiwakes nesting in the ruins of the castle:
And low tech:
Grandma Goes Coastal 